Houseplant · Arecaceae

Fishtail Palm

Caryota mitis

A bold indoor palm with leaflets shaped like a fish's tail, easy to please once you respect its prickly fruit.

Light

Bright indirect

Water

Every 7–⁠14 days

Warmth

55–⁠84°F · 13–⁠29°C

Hardiness

USDA 9–⁠11

Toxic to cats, dogs, horses & more
Fishtail Palm

Overview

The common name fits the foliage exactly: each leaflet is ragged and torn at the tip, much like the trailing edge of a fish's tail. Those leaflets sit on twice-divided, or bipinnate, fronds, which is why a healthy specimen reads as soft and full rather than stiff and spiky.

This is a clumping, multi-stemmed palm that throws new shoots from the base, so it grows as a leafy column of suckers instead of one bare trunk. As the basal suckers mature and crowd in around the older canes, the plant fills out from the ground up and gains its dense, columnar shape.

Indoors it tends to settle at 6 to 10 feet (1.8 to 3 m) tall, which makes it a true statement plant for a bright corner. One detail to plan around: a whole stem will eventually yellow and collapse on its own schedule, and the small reddish-black berries carry needle-like calcium oxalate crystals that burn and itch on bare skin.

Care

The short version: Give it bright indirect light, water once the top half of the soil dries, keep it warm, and feed monthly through the growing season. The one rule that catches people out: wear gloves when you handle the ripe fruit.

Light

Site it in bright indirect light near a window where the rays are filtered rather than direct. It will get by in medium light and some shade, but expect denser, faster growth in a brighter spot, since more light means more photosynthesis and more energy to push out fronds.

Water

During active growth, water well and then wait until the top half of the soil dries, which works out to roughly every 7 to 14 days. Cut back sharply and water sparingly in winter. The goal is evenly moist but never waterlogged soil with good drainage, because saturated mix starves the roots of the air they need.

Soil

Use a rich, loam-based potting mix that drains freely; this palm tolerates clay, loam, and sand. Aim for a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, a wide band that makes most general potting media workable.

Temperature

Hold it between 55°F to 84°F (13°C to 29°C). It has no tolerance for cold drafts or frost, so in winter keep it clear of chilly windows and unheated doorways where a sudden temperature drop can damage the foliage.

Humidity

Average room humidity is acceptable, though the plant prefers more moisture in the air. Dry indoor conditions are the main reason spider mites move in, so a quick misting or a humidity tray helps keep them at bay through the heating season.

Feeding

Feed monthly through spring and summer with a balanced palm fertilizer while the plant is in active growth. Stop in the cooler months once growth slows, since a dormant plant takes up little nutrient and the excess simply builds up in the soil.

Pruning

Pruning is minimal: take off dead or damaged fronds as they appear. When an individual stem finishes flowering and dies, cut it out at the base to open room for the new suckers coming up around it.

Repotting

Repot every 2 to 3 years, or sooner if the clump is crowded. The signals to watch for are roots circling or pushing out the drainage holes, soil that dries out very fast, and growth that has stalled while stems jam the pot.

Size & spacing

Plan for an indoor height of 6 to 10 feet (1.8 to 3 m) and a spread of 3 to 5 feet (90 to 150 cm). Give it open floor space and clearance overhead so the arching fronds can spread without being crushed against a wall or ceiling.

Troubleshooting

Two issues account for nearly every worry with this palm: a stem dying off after it flowers, which is completely normal, and pests that arrive when the air dries out, which are fixable. Match what you actually see to the right cause before you reach for any treatment.

Setback

Webbing and yellow speckling on the leaflets

Warm, dry indoor air is an open invitation to spider mites, one of the worst pests this palm faces indoors. Check the undersides of the leaflets for tiny moving dots and fine webbing. Rinse or wipe the foliage to dislodge them, raise the humidity, and reach for insecticidal soap or horticultural oil if they persist.

Fix:

  • Rinse or wipe foliage to dislodge mites
  • Raise humidity around the plant
  • Treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil as needed
Cosmetic

A whole trunk dies after it blooms

When a full stem yellows and collapses after setting fruit, the cause is monocarpic flowering, not disease. Each cane blooms once from the top down, sets its reddish-black berries, and then dies on schedule. Cut the spent trunk out at the base and let the basal suckers carry the clump forward.

Fix:

  • Cut the spent stem out at the base once it has fully died
  • Allow the surviving suckers to take over the clump

Toxicity

The leaves are generally safe to handle; the hazard lives in the fruit and sap. Both carry sharp calcium oxalate crystals that sting the skin and irritate the mouth and throat of people and pets alike, and no part of the plant is safe to eat. Keep the ripe berries away from children and animals, and wear gloves when cleaning them off the seeds.

Toxic to

Cats · Dogs · Horses · Rabbits · Livestock · Birds · People

Cats Toxic

A cat that bites into the fruit or sap meets an immediate burning sensation in the mouth, with heavy drooling, pawing at the face, swelling of the lips or tongue, and a refusal of food.

Dogs Toxic

Dogs that chew the berries tend to drool suddenly and show mouth pain and retching; some go on to vomit, and many simply turn away from their food.

Horses Caution

Horses rarely come across it, but the oxalate-laden fruit burns the mouth and lips, brings on drooling, and leaves them reluctant to graze; keep any fallen fruit out of reach.

Rabbits Toxic

In rabbits the crystals cause stinging pain and drooling and a flat refusal to eat; no part of the plant should ever be offered to them.

Livestock Caution

Livestock that mouth the fruit get a painful sting and swelling and are usually put off after a single taste; fence the plant away from anything they browse.

Birds Caution

For birds the irritant crystals make the fruit a poor and risky snack, and pecking a broken berry irritates the beak and mouth, so treat it as off-limits.

People Caution

No part is safe for people to eat, and handling crushed fruit can burn and itch the skin for hours; wear gloves when cleaning the berries off the seeds and keep the fruit away from children.

Wear gloves when handling the ripe fruit / cleaning seeds, as the calcium oxalate causes painful skin irritation and itching.

Helpline numbers

United States

ASPCA Animal Poison Control: (888) 426-4435 (fee applies)

Poison Control: (800) 222-1222

United Kingdom

Animal PoisonLine: 01202 509000 (fee applies)

NHS: 111

Australia

Animal Poisons Helpline: 1300 869 738

Poisons Information Centre: 13 11 26

Canada

Poison Centres: 1-844-764-7669

Varieties

There is only one plant to know here, since it is grown as the straight species rather than as a set of named cultivars.

Caryota mitis (species)

This is the clumping, multi-stemmed fishtail palm whose ragged, twice-divided leaflets resemble a fish's tail and which renews itself continually from basal suckers.

How to propagate

There are two ways to propagate this palm, and one is far quicker than the other: dividing the clump is fast, while raising it from seed is a long game.

DivisionModerate

Spring to summer during active growth · Several weeks to a few months for divided suckers to root and resume growth

Because it grows as a clump, the easiest way to propagate is to lift the plant in spring or summer and separate the suckers from around the base. Each division then takes anywhere from a few weeks to a few months to root and resume growth.

SeedModerate

When ripe fruit is available; sow fresh seed · Germination can take several weeks to months, then years to reach size

Sow fresh seed when ripe fruit is available, and wear gloves while cleaning off the pulp, since the calcium oxalate burns and itches. This is the slower route: germination runs several weeks to months, and then years to reach size.

Myths

Myth

A yellowing, collapsing trunk means the whole palm is dying or diseased.

Reality

Each stem flowers once, fruits, and then dies, while the clump persists through fresh basal suckers. This is normal monocarpic behavior, not a problem: cut the spent trunk out and let the new growth take over.

Myth

Like the parlor and areca palms, the fishtail palm is harmless to touch.

Reality

The fruit is packed with needle-like calcium oxalate crystals that sting the skin and trigger itching when you handle a broken berry. Wear gloves around the ripe fruit, because this palm is not in the same safe company as those two.

Sources