You can grow cherry trees successfully in your backyard when you pick the right variety for your climate. Where you plant the tree matters most. Site selection alone sets up about 80% of your results since cherry trees have needs you cannot fix later.
I planted my first cherry tree eight years ago and watched it struggle for three seasons before I figured out what went wrong. The spot I chose got afternoon shade from a tall oak tree and the soil stayed wet after every rain. Once I moved it to a sunnier spot with better drainage, that same tree produced its first fruit within two years. Good cherry tree care starts before you ever dig the hole.
Cherry trees need full sun for at least six to eight hours daily and soil that drains well after rain. Wet roots kill cherry trees faster than almost any pest or disease. The right climate zone matters too since sweet cherries thrive in Zones 5-9 while sour cherries handle colder conditions in Zones 4-8. Both types require 700-1200 chill hours below 45°F (7°C) during winter dormancy to set fruit buds for spring.
These cherry tree growing tips will save you years of frustration if you follow them from the start. The variety you choose must match both your hardiness zone and your local chill hours. A tree rated for Zone 5 might survive in Zone 7 but never produce fruit because it lacks enough winter cold.
Pick the Right Location
- Sun exposure: Choose a spot with full morning sun and at least 6-8 hours of direct light for maximum fruit production.
- Soil drainage: Test drainage by filling a hole with water and checking if it drains within 24 hours or less.
- Air flow: Avoid low spots where cold air settles since late frosts destroy cherry blossoms and ruin your harvest.
Match Variety to Climate
- Hardiness zone: Sweet cherries need Zones 5-9 while sour cherries grow in Zones 4-8 with proper winter protection.
- Chill requirements: Count your average hours below 45°F (7°C) each winter and select varieties that match or fall below that number.
- Pollination needs: Plant two compatible sweet cherry varieties within 50 feet (15 meters) unless you choose a self-fertile type.
Plant at Proper Depth
- Graft union: Keep the graft union 2-3 inches (5-8 centimeters) above soil level to prevent rootstock from sprouting.
- Root spread: Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper to encourage roots to spread outward.
- Backfill carefully: Use native soil mixed with compost and water deeply to settle out air pockets around the roots.
Water Correctly First Year
- Initial establishment: Water newly planted trees 2-3 times weekly for the first month to prevent transplant shock.
- Deep soaking: After month one, switch to weekly deep watering of 1-2 inches (2.5-5 centimeters) throughout year one.
- Moisture check: Push a finger 4-6 inches (10-15 centimeters) into soil near the tree to test if watering is needed.
Maintain Trees Annually
- Winter pruning: Remove dead, crossing, and inward-growing branches in late winter before buds swell each spring.
- Spring feeding: Apply balanced fertilizer in early spring just as buds begin to break dormancy for steady growth.
- Summer monitoring: Check weekly for pests and diseases since early detection prevents most serious problems.
A successful cherry tree rewards you with decades of fruit when you invest the effort upfront. My oldest tree now produces 40-50 pounds of cherries each summer and shows no signs of slowing down. That first struggling tree taught me everything I know about what these trees need to thrive.
Start with the right site and variety and you stack the odds in your favor from day one. The trees do most of the work themselves once you give them the conditions they require. Your patience during those first few fruitless years pays off with harvests that get bigger and sweeter every season after.
Read the full article: Growing Cherry Trees From Seed or Sapling
